Shikoku 88 Temple Pilgrimage Guide (Ohenro)
Japan's most famous walking pilgrimage traces 1,200 km around Shikoku island, visiting 88 temples linked to the Buddhist saint Kobo Daishi. Complete it in 45 days on foot, 12 days by bus, or spread it across several trips — the journey transforms every pilgrim who walks it.
What Is the Shikoku Pilgrimage?
The Shikoku Pilgrimage (四国八十八ヶ所霊場, Shikoku Hachijuhakkasho Reijo) is a 1,200 km circular route visiting 88 Buddhist temples associated with the monk Kobo Daishi (Kukai, 774–835 CE), founder of Shingon Buddhism and one of Japan's most revered religious figures. The circuit traces the four provinces of Shikoku island — Tokushima (Awakening), Kochi (Ascetic Training), Ehime (Enlightenment), and Kagawa (Nirvana) — each representing a stage of Buddhist self-cultivation. Pilgrims, known as "ohenro-san" (お遍路さん), are instantly recognizable by their white jackets, sedge hats, and wooden walking staffs. The pilgrimage has been walked continuously for over 1,200 years and attracts about 150,000 pilgrims annually, including a growing number of foreign visitors.
The 88 Temples & Their Significance
The 88 temples are spread across Shikoku's four prefectures: 23 in Tokushima, 16 in Kochi, 26 in Ehime, and 23 in Kagawa. Temple No. 1 is Ryozen-ji in Naruto (Tokushima) — the traditional starting point — and the circuit ends at Temple No. 88 Okuboji in Kagawa, after which many pilgrims travel to Mount Koya (Wakayama) to report completion at Kobo Daishi's mausoleum. Notable temples include No. 24 Hotsumisaki-ji (perched on a dramatic cape), No. 45 Iwaya-ji (accessed by chains on cliff faces), No. 51 Ishite-ji (with thousands of votive statues), and No. 88 Okuboji (the "gate of enlightenment"). Each temple charges a stamp fee of ¥300–500; collecting all 88 stamps in your "nokyocho" (stamp book, ¥2,500) is central to the tradition.
Ways to Complete the Pilgrimage
On foot (aruki henro) takes 30–60 days and covers the full 1,200 km, approximately 30–40 km per day. This is the traditional method and the most spiritually intensive — walkers experience Shikoku's rural landscapes, receive "osettai" (gifts from locals who feed and house pilgrims as an act of merit), and develop a deep physical and mental connection to the route. By bus (tour henro) takes 10–14 days and costs ¥150,000–250,000, following a clockwise route hitting all 88 temples in air-conditioned comfort. Organized bus tours depart from major Shikoku cities and some operate from Osaka. By car takes 10–14 days independently and costs ¥80,000–150,000 (fuel, tolls, accommodation). Car pilgrims can combine rural drives with temple visits at their own pace. By bicycle takes 15–20 days. Partial pilgrimages — one prefecture at a time over multiple trips — are increasingly popular and fully accepted.
Essential Gear & the White Costume
The traditional ohenro costume consists of: a white vest (hakui, ¥1,500–3,000) symbolizing spiritual purity and readiness for death on the road; a sedge hat (sugegasa, ¥2,000–3,500) inscribed with "Dogyo Ninin" (two walking together — you and Kobo Daishi); a wooden walking staff (kongozue, ¥1,000–3,000) representing Kobo Daishi himself and treated with great reverence (never laid on the ground or brought into bathrooms); a small bag (zuda-bukuro, ¥1,500–2,000) for your stamp book, name slips, and incense; a Buddhist rosary (juzu, ¥1,000–5,000); name slips (osamefuda, ¥100 per pack) deposited at each temple; and incense sticks and candles for offerings. The full set costs ¥10,000–20,000 and can be purchased at Temple No. 1 Ryozen-ji or at the Tokushima City tourist shops.
Costs & Accommodation
Walking the full circuit costs approximately ¥400,000–1,000,000 depending on accommodation choices. Zenkonyado (free pilgrim lodgings provided by local volunteers) reduce costs but require advance contact. Minshuku (guesthouses) run ¥6,000–10,000 including two meals. Business hotels in cities cost ¥4,000–8,000. Some temples offer shukubo (temple lodging) for ¥10,000–15,000 with meals. "Tsuyado" — designated outdoor shelters for ohenro — are free but basic. Bus tours average ¥150,000–250,000 all-inclusive (12–14 days). A car pilgrimage costs ¥80,000–150,000 for fuel, tolls, and guesthouses. The stamp book (nokyocho) costs ¥2,500; stamps are ¥300–500 each, totalling ¥27,000–45,000 for all 88.
Tips for Foreign Pilgrims
Foreign ohenro-san are warmly welcomed throughout Shikoku and often receive extra osettai (gifts of food, drink, or cash from local well-wishers who believe supporting pilgrims generates spiritual merit). Key language: learning "Namu Daishi Henjo Kongo" (the mantra recited at each temple) shows respect. The Heart Sutra (Hannya Shingyo) is recited at each temple; pocket-sized versions with furigana are sold at Temple No. 1. The "Shikoku Pilgrimage" English website (shikoku-tourism.jp) has detailed temple lists, GPS maps, and an English-language stamp book. The pilgrimage has no strict season — spring (March–May) offers mild weather and cherry blossoms; autumn (October–November) is equally beautiful. Summer is manageable but coastal Kochi Province gets very hot. Foreigners who complete the pilgrimage and register at the Shikoku Pilgrimage official office may receive a completion certificate (kesajime).
Frequently Asked Questions
How long does the Shikoku Pilgrimage take on foot?
The full 1,200 km walking circuit takes 30–60 days depending on fitness, daily distance, and how many rest days you take. Most walkers aim for 30–40 km per day, averaging 45 days total. Many foreign pilgrims spread the pilgrimage over 2–4 separate trips, completing one prefecture at a time.
Can foreigners complete the Shikoku Pilgrimage?
Absolutely. The number of foreign ohenro-san has grown significantly since 2010. Temple staff are accustomed to non-Japanese pilgrims; stamp books and instruction cards are available in English at Temple No. 1. The pilgrim community on Shikoku is exceptionally welcoming — many locals will spontaneously offer food, drinks, or cash (osettai) to any pilgrim they see.
What is osettai on the Shikoku Pilgrimage?
Osettai (お接待) is the Shikoku tradition of offering gifts to pilgrims — food, drinks, cash, transport, or lodging — as an act of merit-making on behalf of Kobo Daishi. Refusing osettai is considered impolite; accept graciously and say "Namu Daishi Henjo Kongo" as thanks. Osettai ranges from a few rice crackers to a full meal or a night's accommodation.
Do I have to be Buddhist to do the Shikoku Pilgrimage?
No. The majority of modern pilgrims are not devout Buddhists; many walk for personal reflection, fitness, or memorial purposes. Temple rituals are optional — you can light incense, bow, and collect stamps without reciting sutras. The physical challenge and cultural immersion are themselves considered deeply meaningful regardless of religious belief.
What is the best starting point for a partial Shikoku Pilgrimage?
Temple No. 1 Ryozen-ji in Naruto (Tokushima Prefecture) is the traditional start. For a shorter trip, the Kagawa Prefecture section (Temples 66–88, about 130 km) is accessible from Takamatsu and can be completed on foot in 7–10 days, ending with the emotional arrival at Temple No. 88 Okuboji.