Matsuyama Travel Guide

One of Japan's most celebrated landmarks, Dogo Onsen Honkan is widely considered the oldest continuously operating hot spring in Japan — with documented records spanning over 3,000 years. The iconic three-story wooden bathhouse, built in its current Meiji-era form in 1894, served as direct visual inspiration for the bathhouse in Hayao Miyazaki's "Spirited Away" (2001), the Academy Award-winning Studio Ghibli masterpiece. The building is a Nationally Registered Tangible Cultural Property undergoing gradual renovation while remaining partially open for bathing. The adjacent Dogo Onsen Asuka-no-Yu and Tsubaki-no-Yu provide additional onsen options during renovation.

Standing on the summit of Katsuyama Hill at 132 meters above the city, Matsuyama Castle is widely regarded as Japan's finest surviving hilltop castle — one of only twelve original castle towers (honmaru) remaining in Japan from the feudal era. Built by the Kato clan in 1627 and completed in its current three-story form by the Matsudaira clan in 1854, the castle is notable for its complex defensive architecture, original wooden interiors, and the dramatic hilltop setting offering sweeping views of the Seto Inland Sea, Matsuyama city, and on clear days, the mountains of Hiroshima Prefecture across the water.

Temple 51 of the famous 88-temple Shikoku Pilgrimage (Ohenro-san) and one of the most remarkable temple complexes in western Japan, Ishiteji is a National Treasure with origins dating to 728 AD. The temple's Main Gate (Niomon) and Main Hall are designated National Treasures of Japan. Unlike many temples, Ishiteji has an almost surreal atmosphere — the grounds extend into cave passages, a 50-meter-long underground tunnel carved with statues, and spaces filled with pilgrim votive offerings. The entire approach from Dogo Onsen (10 min walk) passes traditional machiya shops selling pilgrim goods.

Named after the protagonist of Natsume Soseki's beloved 1906 novel "Botchan" — in which the main character rides Matsuyama's tiny steam tram calling it a "matchbox train" — the Botchan Train is a lovingly restored replica of the original Meiji-era steam locomotive that operated in Matsuyama from 1888 to 1954. The miniature coal-fired replica (now diesel-powered for practical operation) runs on weekends and holidays along the Iyotetsu tram network, and is one of Shikoku's most charming and photogenic experiences. Regular Iyotetsu trams (the oldest private railway in Shikoku, founded 1888) operate daily and are a practical way to explore the city.

Located on the site of the former Ninomaru (second compound) of Matsuyama Castle, the Ninomaru History Garden is an expansive Japanese strolling garden occupying the original secondary castle grounds at the base of Katsuyama Hill. The garden preserves the layout and well locations of the original Edo-period castle compound through careful archaeological reconstruction, with stone pathways, seasonal plantings, and reconstructed garden structures. The garden connects to the ropeway station and serves as the starting point for castle visits. In spring, the surrounding moat area blooms with cherry blossoms.

One of the most well-regarded regional zoos in western Japan, Tobe Zoo in the hills outside Matsuyama is home to over 160 species including giant pandas from China — the only pandas in Shikoku. The zoo's large natural enclosures and well-maintained habitats house gorillas, bears, elephants, and a diverse reptile collection. The hillside setting provides fresh air and attractive natural surroundings. Tobe Zoo is also adjacent to the Tobe Porcelain Industrial Hall, where visitors can watch artisans creating Tobe-yaki — Ehime Prefecture's signature white ceramic ware with indigo blue painting.

Formally known as the Shiki Memorial Museum (Shiki Kinen Hakubutsukan), this cultural museum is dedicated to Masaoka Shiki (1867–1902) — Matsuyama's greatest literary son and the poet who single-handedly revitalized the haiku and tanka forms of Japanese poetry in the Meiji era. Shiki's friendship with Natsume Soseki (author of "Botchan") and his pivotal role in modernizing Japanese literature are explored through original manuscripts, personal artifacts, and period documents. The museum provides exceptional context for understanding why Matsuyama considers itself a city of literature and poetry.

Located in the historic Dogo neighborhood adjacent to the famous onsen, Sekizanzen Emon Shrine is dedicated to the legendary figure of Emon Saburo — considered the first henro (pilgrim) of the Shikoku 88-temple pilgrimage. According to tradition, Emon Saburo circled the 88 temples 20 times seeking forgiveness before dying in the arms of the Buddhist saint Kobo Daishi. The shrine is the starting spiritual point of the Shikoku Pilgrimage for many henro. The small, intimate shrine grounds have a quiet, contemplative atmosphere amid the commercial bustle of Dogo.