Tsuwano Guide — Japan's Little Kyoto

Taikodani Inari Shrine is one of Japan's five great inari shrines and the defining landmark of Tsuwano — approached via a tunnel of approximately 1,000 vermillion torii gates winding up the mountainside above the town. Unlike Kyoto's famous Fushimi Inari, this approach is far quieter, allowing for an unhurried, meditative walk through the brilliant orange-red corridor of gates. The shrine at the top is dedicated to the god Uka no Mitama, patron of agriculture and business, and commands panoramic views over the Tsuwano basin and surrounding mountains. The gates are illuminated on special evenings, creating a dramatic night scene.

Open daily, 24 hours (shrine grounds). Free entry. The torii tunnel approach starts near the bottom of the mountain behind central Tsuwano (5 min walk from town). The full ascent takes about 15–20 min. Alternatively, reach the shrine via a road suitable for car or taxi.

Tsuwano's Tonomachi street is lined with stone-paved channels running with hundreds of brilliantly colored koi carp — red, white, gold, and calico — that visitors are welcome to feed (fish food available from nearby shops). The channels were originally built as a water source for firefighting during the castle town era; the carp were added to keep the water clean. The combination of the koi channels, white-walled samurai residences, and latticed windows along Tonomachi creates one of Japan's most distinctive and photogenic historic streetscapes. The carp are best seen in the morning when the water is calm and the light is soft.

Free to walk. Koi fish food sold at nearby shops (¥100–¥200). The main Tonomachi street runs for about 400 meters through the center of town. Most atmospheric in early morning before tourist groups arrive (typically on SL Yamaguchi days).

Tsuwano Castle was a mountain fortress built by the Yoshimi clan in the late 13th century and expanded significantly in the 17th century by the Sakazaki clan. The castle tower was demolished during the Meiji period, but the surviving stone walls, moats, and watchtower foundations offer a fascinating ruin experience high above the town. The views from the castle grounds over the Tsuwano basin, the koi channel streets below, and the surrounding cedar-covered mountains are among the finest in Shimane Prefecture. A chairlift operates from the base of the mountain to near the castle ruins.

Chairlift (¥270 one way, ¥460 round trip) operates approximately 9am–4:30pm. The walk to the castle foundations takes about 15 min from the chairlift exit. Alternatively, hike the full mountain path (40–50 min). Castle grounds are free to enter once at the summit.

The SL Yamaguchi is one of Japan's most beloved preserved steam locomotive services, running on weekends and holidays from Shin-Yamaguchi Station to Tsuwano from late March to late November. The C57-1 locomotive (nicknamed "Lady") hauls period carriages through the mountain valleys and tunnels of Yamaguchi Prefecture — a two-hour scenic journey through rural western Japan that is a destination experience in itself. Passengers can ride in restored period-style green carriages featuring wooden seats and period fixtures, or in standard car carriages at regular reserved-seat pricing. The locomotive is serviced by JR West and has operated this route since 1979.

Operates weekends and holidays, late March–late November (check JR West for exact dates). Departs Shin-Yamaguchi ~10:27am, arrives Tsuwano ~12:25pm. Return departs Tsuwano ~2:14pm. Advance reservation strongly recommended. Standard reserved seat pricing applies (no surcharge beyond regular JR fare).

Tsuwano is the birthplace of Mori Ogai (1862–1922), one of the most important writers of the Meiji era and a key figure in introducing Western literary concepts to Japan. His childhood home — a modest samurai residence with a traditional garden — has been preserved and is open to visitors. An adjacent memorial museum chronicles his life, medical career, and literary works. Ogai's novels and short stories remain widely read in Japan, and his influence on modern Japanese literature is considered comparable to that of his contemporary Natsume Soseki. The museum provides an English-language brochure for international visitors.

Open daily 9am–5pm (closed some Mondays). Entry: memorial museum ¥200, childhood home ¥100 (combined ¥250). Located on Tonomachi street, adjacent to the koi channels. Allow 30–45 minutes.