Why is unagi so expensive in Japan?

Unagi (Japanese freshwater eel, Anguilla japonica) cannot be bred in captivity — all farmed eel starts as wild-caught glass eel (elvers) from rivers and the ocean. Combined with declining wild eel populations and increased demand, this has made the ingredient increasingly scarce and expensive. A full unagi teishoku can cost ¥3,000–¥8,000 at a traditional specialist restaurant.

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Unagi kabayaki — grilled Japanese freshwater eel glazed with sweet soy tare over rice

Unagi Guide

Q: What is the best time of year to eat unagi in Japan?

Doyo no ushi no hi (土用の丑の日) — the Day of the Ox during the midsummer doyo period (late July) — is traditionally Japan's unagi day. This day dates to an 18th-century marketing campaign and is when unagi restaurants are busiest. However, unagi is available year-round. Winter unagi (January–February) is considered by many chefs to be fattier and richer in flavor.

Q: What is hitsumabushi?

Hitsumabushi (ひつまぶし) is Nagoya's signature unagi dish — grilled eel served over rice in a round wooden vessel called a hitsu. It is eaten three ways: first straight from the bowl, then mixed with condiments (negi, wasabi, nori), and finally poured over with dashi broth as a chazuke (tea-rice soup).

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What Is Unagi?

Unagi (鰻) refers to Japanese freshwater eel — specifically Anguilla japonica, a species native to East Asian rivers. In Japanese cuisine, unagi is prepared almost exclusively as kabayaki — the eel is split, boned, skewered, and grilled over charcoal in multiple stages, basted with a sweet soy tare (glaze) that caramelizes into a lacquered, smoky crust over tender, rich flesh.

Unagi at a Glance

• Japanese: 鰻 (unagi) — freshwater eel
• Preparation: Split, boned, grilled as kabayaki with soy-sugar tare glaze
• Regional styles: Kanto (steamed then grilled) vs. Kansai (grilled directly)
• Classic dishes: Unadon (over rice bowl), unaju (in lacquer box), hitsumabushi (Nagoya style)
• Flavor: Rich, smoky, deeply savory, slightly sweet from tare glaze

Two regional preparation styles exist: Kanto (Tokyo area) chefs steam the eel first to render out fat, then grill — producing a softer, lighter result. Kansai (Osaka/Kyoto) chefs grill directly without steaming, producing a crispier, fattier, more intensely flavored kabayaki.

Hitsumabushi: Nagoya's Three-Way Unagi Experience

Hitsumabushi (ひつまぶし) is one of Japan's most celebrated regional dishes — grilled unagi kabayaki served over rice in a large round wooden tub called a hitsu. The dish is eaten in three distinct stages, each revealing a different dimension of the eel and rice combination.

First serving (そのまま)

Scoop into your small individual bowl and eat as-is — eel over rice, no additions. Appreciate the pure kabayaki flavor and the quality of the rice seasoned with the tare.

Second serving (薬味で)

Add the provided condiments: finely sliced negi (green onion), wasabi, and shredded nori (dried seaweed). Mix and eat — the fresh aromatics lift and brighten the rich eel.

Third serving (だし茶漬けで)

Pour hot dashi broth (or green tea, depending on the restaurant) over the remaining eel and rice. Eat as ochazuke — the broth softens the rice and eel, creating a warming, light final course.

Hitsumabushi originated in Nagoya and remains one of the city's most beloved specialties. The dish is now found at unagi restaurants nationwide but is most authentic at Nagoya's specialist shops.

Doyo no Ushi no Hi: Japan's Unagi Day

Doyo no ushi no hi(土用の丑の日) — the Day of the Ox during the midsummer doyo period (late July) — is Japan's annual unagi day. The tradition dates to an 18th-century marketing campaign by scholar Hiraga Gennai, who advised an Edo-period eel seller to advertise unagi as an energy food for the summer heat.

Seasonal Unagi Calendar

• Late July (doyo no ushi no hi): Peak demand — every convenience store and supermarket sells unagi. Restaurants are most crowded; prices may be higher.
• Autumn (Sept–Nov): Excellent quality — eel has been fattening all summer. Less crowded at restaurants.
• Winter (Jan–Feb): Many connoisseurs consider winter unagi superior — the cold water makes eel fat and rich before hibernation.
• Spring (March–May): Leaner eel as they emerge from winter. Good but not peak season.

Best Unagi Restaurants in Nagoya & Tokyo

Atsuta Horaiken (あつた蓬莱軒)

Atsuta, Nagoya

The most celebrated hitsumabushi restaurant in Japan — established 1873, adjacent to Atsuta Shrine. Queues of 2–3 hours on weekends. The definitive hitsumabushi experience.

💴 ¥4,000–¥7,000

Hitsumabushi Bincho

Multiple Nagoya locations

The most accessible high-quality hitsumabushi chain in Nagoya — no multi-hour waits, consistent quality, and the three-way eating experience fully intact.

💴 ¥3,500–¥5,000

Nodaiwa (野田岩)

Higashi-Azabu, Tokyo

Tokyo's most historic unagi restaurant — founded 1850, Michelin-starred. Uses Kanto-style (steamed then grilled) preparation. The unaju lacquer box set is extraordinary.

💴 ¥5,000–¥10,000

Obana (尾花)

Minowa, Tokyo

Another legendary Tokyo unagi specialist (opened 1945) — long queues but worth the wait. Serves Kanto-style unagi in a beautiful traditional interior.

💴 ¥4,000–¥8,000

How to Order Unagi — Menu Guide

Unagi Menu Terms

• Unadon (鰻丼): Grilled eel over rice in a bowl — the most affordable format
• Unaju (鰻重): Grilled eel served in a lacquer box over rice — more premium presentation
• Hitsumabushi (ひつまぶし): Nagoya-style in a wooden tub — eaten three ways
• Kabayaki (蒲焼): Just the grilled eel without rice — sometimes served as a drinking snack
• Shira-yaki (白焼き): Eel grilled without tare — plain, revealing pure eel flavor

Most unagi restaurants have price tiers (nami/standard, jo/premium, toku-jo/special) based on the size and quality of the eel used. First-timers should order jo unaju or jo hitsumabushi — the premium tier at a mid-range restaurant provides the best introduction to the ingredient.

Frequently Asked Questions

What is the best time of year to eat unagi in Japan?▼

Doyo no ushi no hi (late July) is Japan's traditional unagi day, but the best quality is actually in autumn and winter when eel has been fattening up. Many connoisseurs prefer winter unagi (January–February) for its richer fat content. Avoid doyo no ushi no hi itself if you dislike crowds — restaurants are extremely busy.

What is hitsumabushi?▼

Hitsumabushi is Nagoya's signature unagi dish — grilled eel over rice served in a round wooden vessel. It is eaten in three stages: first plain, then with condiments (wasabi, negi, nori), then with dashi broth poured over to create ochazuke (broth-rice soup). The best versions are found at Atsuta Horaiken near Atsuta Shrine in Nagoya.

Why is unagi so expensive?▼

Japanese freshwater eel (Anguilla japonica) cannot be bred in captivity — all farmed eel starts as wild-caught glass eels (elvers) from rivers and ocean. With declining wild populations and increasing demand, the ingredient has become scarce and expensive. A full unagi set meal at a traditional restaurant costs ¥3,000–¥8,000.

What is the difference between Kanto and Kansai unagi style?▼

Kanto (Tokyo) style steams the eel first to render out fat, then grills — producing a softer, lighter result. Kansai (Osaka/Kyoto) style grills directly without steaming, producing a crispier skin and fattier, more intensely flavored flesh. Both are excellent; the preference is regional and personal.

Stay in Nagoya — Home of Hitsumabushi

Nagoya is the ultimate destination for unagi lovers — Atsuta Horaiken is a short taxi ride from the city center.

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