Oita Guide

The Beppu Jigoku (別府地獄) are 8 spectacular hot spring pools — called "hells" because they are too hot and mineral-rich to bathe in, but visually dramatic. Each has a unique character: Umi Jigoku (Sea Hell) is cobalt blue at 98°C; Chi-no-ike Jigoku (Blood Pond Hell) is vivid red from iron oxide; Tatsumaki Jigoku (Waterspout Hell) is a geyser erupting every 20–40 minutes. A combined pass covers 8 hells for ¥2,200. The hells are grouped in two areas requiring a short bus ride between them. Allow 2–3 hours for all 8.

Beppu and Yufuin are Oita's two main onsen towns, 50 minutes apart by train (¥1,280). Beppu is Japan's largest hot spring resort — a busy port city with 8 Jigoku Hells, massive public bathhouses, and abundant budget accommodation. It's more urban and commercial. Yufuin (由布院) is a scenic highland valley surrounded by hills — boutique ryokan, art galleries, and a quieter atmosphere aimed at couples and design-conscious travelers. Yufuin is pricier but more atmospheric. Many visitors do both: Beppu hells by day, overnight in Yufuin.

The Sonic limited express from Hakata Station (Fukuoka) reaches Beppu in about 2h (¥5,450). The Yufuin-no-Mori scenic express (reservation required, ¥4,770 + seat fee ¥840) runs directly from Hakata to Yufuin in 2h10 through beautiful mountain scenery — one of Japan's most pleasant train journeys. From Oita city (the prefecture's capital), Beppu is 15 minutes by local train and Yufuin is 55 minutes. From Beppu to Yufuin: JR Kyudai Line, about 50 minutes (¥1,280).

Sand bathing (sunamushi) at Beppu Beach Onsen (別府海浜砂湯) is a unique Beppu experience — attendants bury you up to your neck in naturally geothermally heated black sand on the beach, 40°C, for about 10–15 minutes. The heat penetrates deeply, relaxing muscles more intensely than water onsen. After, you shower and move to the conventional indoor bath. Cost: ¥1,500 including yukata rental. Located on the waterfront; bring a towel and change of clothes. Open year-round; closes in typhoon season storms.

Yufuin has some of Japan's finest boutique ryokan — many with private open-air baths (kashikiri rotenburo) and locally sourced kaiseki cuisine. The Yufuin Onsen area is compact; most high-end ryokan are a short walk or taxi from Yufuin Station. The Kinrin-ko Lake area in the center is most scenic — early morning fog rising over the lake with Mt. Yufu in the background is Yufuin's signature image. Book well in advance for weekends and autumn foliage season (November). Prices range from ¥15,000 to ¥80,000+ per person with two meals.

Oita is famous for toriten — large tempura-battered chicken pieces, a Oita specialty eaten with ponzu dipping sauce. Also: fugu (puffer fish) from Bungo Suido strait — Oita is one of Japan's top fugu-producing regions (seasonal, autumn–spring); Bungo beef wagyu, the local premium cattle; Hita Yakisoba — stir-fried noodles from the inland city of Hita; and Yufuin milk products from local dairy farms — Yufuin's cream-filled pastries and fresh soft serve are popular souvenirs. Beppu has many jigoku-steamed dishes (jigokomushi) using hot spring steam.